Chicago Hot Dog

May 8, 2007 - 3:29pm

Tuesday, May 8th. Downtown Chicago

Just to end the suspense, everything worked out yesterday just fine. I arrived in Chicago at 10:45am and took the L train downtown. It took an hour to get to my hotel. I spent the entire afternoon walking around Grant Park, looking at lake Michigan, and going through the Field Museum, which was wonderful. That evening I rode the train back to the airport, picked up my duffel bag, and all is well.

In the process of doing all of that, I must have walked about 10 miles on pavement, and my feet were feeling it. We don’t walk much I Texas. Things are too spread out. But walking is good for you, and I enjoy it, so I’ve been happy to put cars aside for a few days.

The Chicago L train seems to be exactly what you want in a mass transit system. The trains run every few minutes, and the routes are well marked. Hey, if a guy from Texas who has no experience with subways or trains can get onboard, follow the map, and even make a transfer to another line, all on the first try with a minimum of stress, you must be doing something right.

There are certainly many things about Chicago that I could write about - the beauty of the architecture (so different from Texas), the interesting streets of downtown with businesses under the L tracks, Grant and Millennium parks, and a lot of things that “feel” like Chicago.

But I want to talk about the food. I came with two modest food goals. Try a Chicago-style hot dog and try a Chicago-style pizza. I was tired last night after walking through the airport twice, all over the parks and through the museum, then up and down the streets gawking at buildings. At 9pm I stopped in a little diner that had a sign advertising their hot dogs.

“I’m from Texas,” I said. “And I want to try a Chicago hot dog. I hear they’re pretty good."

“You don’t want ketchup on it, do you?” he asked suspiciously.

“Hell no,” I responded. “I may be from Texas, but I’m not a savage.”

I got the male nod, the one that says, “You could possibly be okay. And I’ll grant you that status until you prove otherwise.”

“You want it all the way?”

I thought about this for a moment. In Texas, we mostly eat hot dogs with mustard, or with chili and cheese and maybe some jalapenos. But I’m a big fan of the “When in Rome” philosophy. I can have a Texas hot dog anytime.

“Load her up,” I said.

At first I wasn’t sure that the thing he handed me was a hot dog. I couldn’t see the dog, for one thing. Lord, these people put a lot of stuff on their hot dogs. I ate it; I didn’t dissect it, so I can’t be sure I even know what was in there, but as far as I could tell there was mustard, sweet relish, onions, tomatoes (that was new to me), two chili peppers that I could not identify, and a pickle that was about the size of the hot dog and sitting on top of everything else.

I took one bite and put the pickle aside. I can do without that, but the rest was fine. The peppers were a little disappointing – no heat. But all together it was very nice, I must say.

Tuesday I have a meeting with the folks at Christian Century. I plan to try Chicago pizza. I’ll let you know how it goes.

rlp

Submitted by The Token Catholic on May 8, 2007 - 4:13pm.

Where are you going for pizza? Lou Malnati's I loved when I was living there. The one we went to was in Elk Grove Village, which is a schlep from you, but I think there's a few downtown.

http://bigumuse.blogspot.com

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 4:44pm.

no matter where people tell you to eat pizza, ignore them. You should eat pizza from one of two places:

Bacinos (there's one on Wacker just west of Michigan, right by the river) or Giordanos (they're everywhere). These are the best pizzas in the city. authentic chicago-style (hugely thick but with very little crust--but what crust there is is buttery goodness). heaven on a pan.

Submitted by The Token Catholic on May 8, 2007 - 7:27pm.

Yah, Giordanos is good, too.

http://bigumuse.blogspot.com

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 8:35am.

EDWARDO's is the best pizza in all of Chicago. And there's one downtown south of the Loop. Try the stuffed spinach. It's wonderful!

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 4:45pm.

I really wanted to try and meet up with you sometime, but it was not meant to be. My wife, son, and myself are in the process of moving to the Chicago area, and I thought I'd be downtown yesterday. Anyway, glad you did the Chicago dog thing. I honestly can't eat them any other way anymore. Well, maybe a chili dog now and then. Oh, and you're just a bit off on the toppings. A true Chicago dog has mustard, onion, clery salt, tomato, sport peppers (they're not supposed to be super-hot), and the pickle. I can understand laying the pickle aside, it can make things difficult, but I always try to eat everything.

As for pizza, I know Giordano's and Connie's are my favorites, but I think they're mainly in the 'burbs (there is a Giordano's out by O'Hare, though). I'm sure there's some amazing family-owned joint in the city that puts them to shame, but I haven't found it yet.

And if you have any sightseeing time left, you should really stop by the Art Institute.

Next time you're in town, I should be settled in, and maybe I can catch up with you.

- Adam

Submitted by Satchel Pooch on May 8, 2007 - 4:56pm.

“You don’t want ketchup on it, do you?” he asked suspiciously.

“Hell no,” I responded. “I may be from Texas, but I’m not a savage.”

HAHAHAHA! Brilliant, Preach!

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 6:24pm.

If there was a taste you could not recognize on that dog, it might have been celery salt. I've never seen anyone use celery salt on anything else in my life, but it goes good with the dogs.

Woof!

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 6:38pm.

"We don’t walk much I Texas."

Maybe you don't cause you're a lazy slob, but the rest of us Texans walk our fair share, cowboy.

Stan

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 6:42pm.

Good call on the ketchup! It is a cardinal sin and completely unforgivable to have anything but mustard on your dog in Chicago.

As for pizza - I agree with the recommendation to go to Lou Malnatti's or Giordano's. Excellent deep dish (although you must eat it while it is hot or in my opinion it gets a bit soggy).

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 6:51pm.

I was right.... everything was fine.

That's the way!

orangeblossoms

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 7:27pm.

what happened to meeting S. for lunch?

Submitted by rlp on May 8, 2007 - 9:50pm.

That was supposed to be yesterday, but my airport fiasco made that impossible. We're going to eat tomorrow.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 8:10pm.

Those peppers are typically referred to as 'sport peppers.' They usually have a little kick (less than a jalapeno but certainly noticeable). That's about as much as I know; when it comes to eating hot dogs I'm firmly ensconced in the 'ignorance is bliss' camp. ;)

--Stuart

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 9:22pm.

It's Uno's on Ohio and Wabash as the original Chicago tradition. Be there or be square.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 9:22pm.

Soup says Giordanos as well. I know their nephew, transplanted to SA of all places.

Mmmmm pizzaaaaaaa

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 9:44pm.

I'm from Chicago, and it wasn't until this entry that I realized that hot dogs in other places typically come *without* the pickle!

Submitted by atticus on May 8, 2007 - 9:51pm.

this is so much fun reading about your chicago adventures. i was thinkin' that if things don't work out in the non-fiction area of your career, you could move on to travel books. i loooooove reading travel books, planning trips i never take. "traveling real roads with real live preacher"

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 8, 2007 - 9:51pm.

Giordano's. The spinach. Pretend its good for you.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 7:02pm.

it IS good for you! full of iron! :-)

--Teri (Clever Title Here) (and also leaver of the original Giordano's comment, sans signature due to temporary confirmation-class-induced insanity)

Submitted by Saint Margaret on May 9, 2007 - 6:25am.

Another breathtakingly wonderful Chicago pizza place:
Edwardo's. N. Dearborn, S. Dearborn, N. Halsted....get the stuffed spinach pizza (you don't have to like spinach to love this pizza.)

Another Chicago institution: Lou Mitchell's for breakfast. Yum.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 6:35am.

Why can't we enjoy ketchup on our hotdogs?! WHY?!

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 8:39am.

Yeah, I AGREE! Why NOT! (except on eggs, of course, which is truly dreadful . . .)

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 7:41am.

A true Chicago hot dog experience will include:

-a beef hot dog
-a poppy seed bun
-yellow mustard
-sweet relish
-chopped raw onion
-a kosher dill pickle spear
-tomato slices
-sport peppers
-celery salt

Jalapenos instead of sport peppers are an acceptable variation. As you rightly noted, the addition of ketchup is not.

And now... it's 7:39 AM here in Big Sky Country, and you've got me wanting a hot dog. Guess that's going to be lunch today.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 8:38am.

Are they hot dogs or one of those dreadful "brats" that Chicagoans seem to crave?

Submitted by Jane Ellen on May 9, 2007 - 9:30am.

No, they are real, all-beef hot dogs.

Brats (for the unfamiliar, that would be bratwurst, not a reference to spoiled children) are another delicacy entirely.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 8:05am.

So I'm curious, how do people in other parts of the country eat hot dogs? Is there a distinctive NYC style dog? Philadelphia? (or is that only cheesesteaks?) LA? Pittsburg? With the advent of chain restaurants EVERYWHERE, we have to keep these things alive.

We have the ubiquitous ham biscuit served at every social occasion from christenings to funerals here in Virginia, but no hot dog traditions peculiar to us so far as I know. But I NEVER eat ketchup on a hot dog -- ugh!

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 10:42am.

In North Carolina a hot dog "all the way" includes mustard and ketchup, onions, chili, and cole slaw on top. Awesome! Once I had a lady ask me how I would like to have my hot dog. After hemming and hawing for a moment I looked her in the eye and say, "Let's go all the way!" In my quite innocent gaufaw she failed to see the humor while her co-worker was rolling on the floor laughing.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 8:41am.

You can get a great dog at Chicago Dog (aka Red Hot Lovers) in Ann Arbor. Everyone's invited!

Also, although Bucca di Beppo is a chain, I had the best eggplant parmigiana in my life at the one on Halstead a few years ago. I still remember it. :-)

Enjoy your trip!

Submitted by briansp on May 9, 2007 - 8:42am.

(that was me previously)

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 9:54am.

Gotta go with Giorodano's. And do as someone above suggested - go for the spinach, you won't regret it.

Submitted by LutheranHusker on May 9, 2007 - 10:24am.

Go with Lou Malnati's, and if you can make it there, go to the Lawndale location. All profits from that location go right back into the surrounding community (and it's dang good pizza!). If you're ever there on a Sunday morning, there's a church on the same block as the pizzeria--head to church for some rip-snortin' gospel, then over to Lou's for some rip-snortin' pizza. Does it GET any better than that?!?!?!?

Here's a link for the location: http://www.loumalnatis.com/locations/chicago_lawndale.html

http://lutheranhusker.blogspot.com

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 11:56am.

Third the motion for Edwardo's. Also--go to the Berghoff for German pot roast and their own house beers! Yum!

Jodi

Submitted by raj on May 9, 2007 - 12:01pm.

A note about the El (although this hot dog conversation is fascinating! I was vegetarian when I lived in Chicago. Who knew?)...anyway:

If you have time someday and you want a good solid cultural experience, take the green line SOUTHBOUND from downtown to...oh, say 63rd. Be sure and look out the windows, and pay attention inside the train, too. Chicago is one of the most clearly divided cities I've ever known. The north side is a world and three-quarters away from the west side and the south side. And when you try to go from the south side to the north side on the El you discover that it takes about 2 hours. (I don't mean from just south of the loop to just north of the loop, I mean from south of Hyde Park to...oh, say Lakeview/Boystown). There are El stops I was advised to avoid. Always. There are people who definitely made me nervous. And Chicago seems bent on closing the stops that connect the poor with the wealthy. The El is a good transit system, but it's not everything I'd want. Still, I'm glad you had a good experience, RLP. Safe and happy travels to you.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 5:26pm.

I am reading all of this hot dog stuff, and I am picturing Mr. Spock from the origianl Star Trek in my head. Whenever they encountered some strange alien creature, or cultural thing, or some other unexplainable phenomenon, he would cock one of his slanted eyebrows at Capt. Kirk and say in that inscrutable way,

"Fascinating, Captain."

:)

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 7:29pm.

I don't get folks suggesting spinach for a Chicago pizza. Personally, I like Unos, but my guess is that you will find good Chicago pizza in many places. But spinach?

If you got the time and want Chicago flavor, go to the Billy Goat Tavern & Grill on lower Michigan Ave. If are a fan of the Not Ready For Prime Time Players (the original SNL cast) you will recognize the place.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 9, 2007 - 8:24pm.

Darling RLP, since you are a writer and I know you'd want to know, let me ever-so-gently say that you made a mistake I also made when I came unto this place, and so I gently correct you thus:

It's the El, short for ELevated (right, chicagoans?) rather than the "L". Just so you know. As I was told. gently. by some other person long ago.

bow scrape scrape. ;) heartforyouth

Submitted by rlp on May 10, 2007 - 7:09am.

lol,

Yeah, I knew it stood for elevated train. And I saw it written as EL in places. But I had also seen it written the other way. On the Chicaco transit website, for one. Their URL is Chicago-L.org.

from their website:
"The Chicago "L" system is a unification of lines built and formerly operated by competing companies."

So, I went with what I could find. My assumption was that both spellings are okay. It's probably changing as language does. From "the elevated train" to "the elevated" to "the el" and now perhaps just "The L."

As I understand it, there used to be a train called the "KT" That originaly was "The Katy," because it went through Katy, Texas.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 10, 2007 - 8:41am.

Real Chicagoans spell it "EL". All the pizza suggestions represent the best: Edwardo's spinach stuffed pizza - a treat while in Seminary.
Lou Malnati's also very, very good. And my old time favorite - Gino's East.
Can't go wrong with any of them.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 10, 2007 - 10:14am.

Demon Dogs ... under the L near DePaul. I can taste the celery salt now.

Submitted by Anonymous User on May 11, 2007 - 9:19am.

i've never heard a hot dog described as nice.

Submitted by PastorBluejeans on May 12, 2007 - 9:24pm.

The "Katy Line" name comes from the Missour-Kansas-Texas Railroad. Some people called it the MKT. It believe it did have a switching yard in Katy Texas. The town was named for the railroad not the other way round. I used to serve a church in Smithville TX where there also was a KT switching area. Just thought you might want to know.

Submitted by goatmeal on May 12, 2007 - 10:07pm.

getting the male nod from someone in Chicago is quite an accompishment. Even if you are about to buy a hotdog from him. It must be a preacher thing.